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Frequently Asked Questions
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Q.	What causes my thermostat to short cycle? Electro-mechanical thermostats have a small variable heater built into them. It tricks the thermostat into thinking that the room temperature is satisfied so the temperature doesn�t overshoot. The setting of the heat anticipator is based on the current draw of the connected zone valve wiring. A low current drawing valve requires a longer heater wire to create the same amount of heat. A high current draw circuit requires only a short heater wire. Taco zone valves of the 550, 560, and 570 series draw about 1 amp, so the heat anticipator should be set accordingly. If the thermostat is short cycling, increase the setting to a higher amp setting.
Q.	Why does my zone valve let flow through it when it is not powered? There are a few possible causes: The 570 series can only hold back 50 feet of head. If a pump upstream of the valve produces more than 50 feet, the valve will be pushed open. If the manual lever has been pulled down, the valve will be manually opened. The zone valve is in an environmet which is causing the piston of the operator to stick, preventing the valve from closing.
Q.	The installation in question has zoned hydronic heat, controlled with 3 Taco 571 zone valves and 3 Taco 568 thermostats. I need to replace one of the thermostats, but Taco no longer makes the 568. Are the newer thermostats with no heat anticipators compatible with Taco zone valves? The instructions with the 571 valve say that the thermostat heat anticipator must be set to 0.9A to match the valve rating. Will the valve function correctly without a heat anticipator in the zone? Taco still offers a thermostat #568-20. It may not look like your original, but it functions the same. Many people mistakenly think the 571 zone valve is a 3-wire zone valve because it has 3 terminals. All the Taco 500 series zone valves are 2-wire, 3-terminal zone valves. The heat anticipator has no bearing on the operation of the zone valve. Its purpose is to trick the thermostat into shutting off ahead of time, allowing the heat left in the piping system to dissipate into the room and not overshoot the temperature setting. The current draw of the circuit had to be matched to the heat anticipator so it would work properly. A lot of the new thermostats do not require a heat anticipator. All of the battery operated thermostats will work with the resistor and the units that require a third wire (C) to get power from the transformer. It is the digital units that either steal power, need the resistor, direct power, or battery. All the other conventional units work, but make sure they handle a current rating of 1 Amp.